Dry cleaning can exasperate this further as it overheats the suit during the cleaning process which causes inferior glues to melt and separate quickly. In addition, the glue can break down overtime, which causes the synthetic layer to separate or ‘bubble’ away from from the suit fabric. Not only is it quite boxy to look at, it is also very more hot to wear. Fused suits is thick, stiff, and doesn’t mould to your shape. Instead of hand-stitching the canvas to give the suit shape, a synthetic layer is glued (fused) to the inner side of the suit fabric. If your suit jacket is bubbling, you probably have a fused suit. To combat the cost challenge of producing canvas to this high level, off-the-rack and fast fashion companies developed what we now call ‘fusing’ to allow suit production on a mass scale at a lower price. It requires a high level of craftsmanship, hundreds of man hours and is therefore your most expensive option. The canvassed suit is the most labour-intensive to produce. The fabric of the suit almost floats on top of the canvas and therefore drapes more softly between the layers. Traditionally, this piece of support is made out of canvas from a blend of horsehair, and is woven together to create a floating piece of fabric that is then hand-woven loosely onto the outer cloth of the jacket in the front panels and around the collar. This layer is designed to create structure, support and eventually mould to the wearer’s body and shape. The front of the jacket – including the chest and lapel – are always supported by a piece of stiffening fabric. This is referring to the way the jacket is made. You might have heard the terms ‘fused’ or ‘canvassed’ before in regards to your suit.
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